Wyoming

Wyoming is medicine. Admittedly, Phill and I both awoke feeling a little sick over our experience at Mt. Rushmore yesterday. I don't mean to harp on it. We talked about it. Talked about the commercialism, the push for consumerism in a gift shop stuffed with products from China....all at a place that's supposed to make us feel more patriotic than ever. We see the misgivings. We take note. We do our best to support local and not feed into the consumer mentality. Maybe witnessing it at a national monument is why we were both disheartened so much.

Once we crossed that Wyoming state line, our conversation changed. With Willie, Hank, and Johnny serenading us, we saw the numerous trains dotting the vast landscape hauling coal from one mining town to the next. From miles away, we watched the dark clouds build and then drove right into a glorious summer thunderstorm. While I could now take this moment to harp on our country's dependence on oil or on climate change, Wyoming seemed to inspire the patriotic feelings we missed yesterday. I'm so proud to know that our country still has these places. Land that is relatively untouched, land that was traversed by the bravest of explorers. Watching the trains reminded us of the infrastructure that supports our economy. The wide open sky gave Phill even more reason to get back in the plane. Paul's death could certainly paralyze his ambitions, but then again, getting in a car can be just as dangerous. Driving cross country is no small feat. He quoted Hellen Keller: "Security is mostly a superstition. It does not exist in nature, nor do the children of men as a whole experience it. Avoiding danger is no safer in the long run than outright exposure. Life is either a daring adventure or nothing."

The drive was good for us. We needed it. It renewed our faith in the country just a little; reinvigorated our adventurous spirits. After all, we decided to take this journey to explore and appreciate this great nation we live in.

There are few words to accurately describe the rest of these last two days for us. We drove up I-90, almost to the Montana border, then got off on State Route 14 at Sheridan. We followed it over the Bighorn Mountains, through Bighorn National Forest, out onto the flats west of Greybull and finally into Cody. Just outside of Yellowstone, we snuggled in for the night. It was a cool 45 degree in the mountains. We stayed at the Absaroka Mountain Lodge, so named for the mountains it's nestled between, and right on the Shoshone River. With no internet access or cell phone coverage, we had nothing to do but breath fresh mountain air, take a hike, sit around the campfire and look up at a Milky Way I forgot existed. It was lovely. It was cleansing. A welcome break from technology and distractions. We agreed that the lodge provided one of the most refreshing and genuine retreats we've had in a very long time.

Seven years ago, my dear friends, Rob and Sara, drove me up over Tioga Pass in California. It was one of the few times that I was profoundly awed, speechless, and moved almost to tears at the natural beauty before me. This is the best way I can describe our last 48 hours as we traversed the Bighorn Mountains, Yellowstone and the Grand Tetons. The descriptions by Thoreau and Annie Dillard echoed in my thoughts, as my own words just cannot do this scenery justice. Route 14 will forever be special in my heart because it too left Phill speechless. To know we shared that same wonderment of nature....that he understands and appreciates my quests for the wild and untamed landscapes...it's a pillar of our relationship.

Within the first hour of entering Yellowstone, we had seen 3 moose (one was an enormous male with a full rack), one grizzly bear, and numerous bison. I cannot go without mentioning the mountain pine beetle either. Almost 85% of the park has been destroyed by this invasive species. To look across entire mountains of dead trees is quite astounding and heart-wrenching. We are so thankful we saw the park when we did, before more is destroyed. I'll leave you now with the pictures. Just as my words fall short, the pictures do as well. I can only hope that each of you has the occasion to experience this. To seek with your own eyes the thrill of a scene that moves your soul, awakens your senses and forever leaves an impression in your spirit.

Fun in Utah

We knew we weren't in DC in anymore when this became our morning commute.

About 40 miles south of Jackson, WY, on Route 189, we encountered "traffic". I think I'll take the hooves and tails anyday over the bumpers and taillights we're used to.

Five hours later, we arrived at Aaron and Stacia's in Midvale, Utah. Immediately we were ushered into the world of storytelling, pink nail polish, trains, and an energy level I envy. John and Lydia are at precious ages, almost 6 and 4 respectively, and Phill and I relish our Uncle and Aunt time with them. John is reading at a most impressive rate, and Lydia has become quite the artist. They are proud of their abilities and rightly so. John can nearly ride his bike without training wheels, and Lyddie is already saving her money for toys she'd like in the future.

We spent Saturday afternoon, first at a eclectic German grocery, then on a hike to Doughnut Falls. The kids are so inquisitive. It amazed me how foolish and uninformed a five-year-old can make a twenty-eight year old feel!

Stacie made a most delicious cherry pie (my favorite!) for us to enjoy that evening. She and the kids had gone cherry picking the day prior and the counters were lined with their bounty. Sunday was filled with church service, nail painting, riding bikes, jumping on the trampoline, cherry jelly making and a nice dinner out at a local favorite. By nine o'clock they had worn us out!

We so enjoyed our time with them. It's the first opportunity we've had to spend together as just the six of us. We had some great conversations, laughed constantly at the various stories the kids told us, and ate up all the hugs and kisses John and Lydia poured on us. There was even time for the Shafovaloff men to try their tastebuds on octopus. Even with Uncle Phill announcing it tasted like chicken, I'm not sure I'll ever forget the look on poor John's face as the taste finally set in on his tongue!

So alas, we come to a little break in our journey westward. Phill and I have returned to DC for a few weeks, as we have some commitments back here to tend to. Stay tuned, however, as I'll return on the blog July 16. We'll complete the last stage of the drive to Seattle that week. Until then, have great starts to your summers, a safe 4th of July, and stay cool!

A Survey of South Dakota

I love this view. I can't get enough of it. I suppose that's a good thing since we have many more miles to cover with the same scene.

We left Pierre, SD, headed for Badlands National Park. We decided to keep count of the Wall Drug signs along the way. Final count: 23. FREE ice water? By golly, we better stop!

About halfway into the drive, we noticed the rather juicy bugs that kept slamming into our windshield. In the evening, it's quite normal...but during the day? Then we realized what we were hitting....
There are hundreds of beehives situated just off the exits of Interstate 90. I had a moment of mourning. All that honey... Then I wondered just how many of those little guys perish on windshields? And why do they place the beehives so close to the interstate? Google didn't have any answers for me.

As a photographer, I'm always hoping for those breathtaking scenes when the light will touch a subject just so. I've seen so many pictures from the Badlands, all with rock bathed in golden light. I suppose I had a fantasized image heading in. Though the overcast day did not cooperate with my camera as we drove through the park, I could appreciate the beauty as well as the geological forces that created this place. The layers of color certainly leave one in contemplation about our earth. The Badlands probably won't be a park that I return to time and time again....though the quest for better lighting will draw me back at least once, this I know. Of all the National Parks we've visited, this is the first one that has really put the geological structure of our planet in perspective. All the others have mountains, tree-covered passes, and bodies of water to somewhat disorient the idea. At the multiple stops we made, the panoramic view left me in awe. We made sure to look from one horizon of flat grassland to the other, taking in the interruption of glacier-carved earth in between. I'm so grateful I've finally seen the park with my own eyes and can digest the layout of the land.

Our experience at Mt. Rushmore was not quite as awe-inspiring. In fact, just the opposite. As we approached the park, we couldn't help but notice the "Disneyland/Vegas" commercialism that enveloped the area. You could visit Christmasland, see live bears, and play putt-putt all within a 2 mile stretch. The isolation from humanity's modern progression and appreciation for mother nature were completely lost...two reasons Phill and I seek the refuge of national parks in the first place. Upon arrival, we payed an $11 fee just to park. Though it's a national monument, the parking garage has been contracted out to a private company, thus giving them the ability to charge. This left a bad taste in our mouths. Don't get me wrong. I can appreciate the art and skill that went into creating the mountain. In fact, on the ride in, we listened to the history of Gutzon Borglum and how the project evolved. It's pretty amazing. But's it not exactly our type of scene. As we drove away from the billboards and flashing lights, I was grateful that Yellowstone is on the agenda for tomorrow.

We had one more stop to make by day's end. Up through the Black Hills, Deadwood, and Spearfish to Nate and Katie Herman's place outside of Nisland. Katie is an old friend of the twins' from high school. She moved out to South Dakota a few years ago, married a cowboy and they now ranch an 80-acre piece of heaven. After a few dirt roads to get there, I decided she's got a pretty good life out here. It's hard to imagine she went from Stafford, VA to God's Country, SD. When we arrived, Nate was just finishing construction on their chicken coop and proceeded to introduce the hens to their new home. We visited awhile, then left in time to see yet another spectacular sunset.

If you're ever in Belle Fourche, make sure to have dinner at the Branding Iron.
Best. Steak tips. Ever. And that's coming from someone who rarely eats red meat.

My heart's a-flutter because tomorrow brings Yellowstone. I can hardly wait!