Wednesday, July 18, 2012

Rock Slide = Rocking Chairs

Sunrise was gorgeous this morning. At 5:30, I was bursting forth with "...for amber waves of grain, for purple mountain majesties...." as we made our way up Montana 89. With wheat to my right and the Flathead Mountain range to my left, I couldn't agree more: yes, America, you are beautiful.


We entered Glacier National Park about 7:30, ready for a full day of spectacular views. It was at this point that the Park Ranger kindly informed us the Going to the Sun Road was closed for the day due to a rock slide from last night's rains. We could make it as far as Logan Pass, about 12 miles from the entrance, but would have to turn back.

We debated doing the 12 miles, then coming back out of the park and continuing on Route 2 into Idaho, so as not to delay our travels. By debate, I mean we considered it for all of two seconds. Seeing Glacier National Park is on my life's bucket list. No rock slide was going to alter our plans to see the whole park.

Anxious to sneak a peak of at least part of it, we decided to drive up the 12 miles to Logan Pass. I've never felt so small, and so grateful, and so wondered all at once. In 1850, 150 glaciers existed throughout the park territory. Today, that number stands at 26. The most recent reports say that by 2030, all the glaciers will have disappeared. That means the majority of the next generation...our children...will never see a glacier in Glacier National Park. I hope that resonates with all of you just as profoundly as it did with us. So in addition to making renewed vows to lessen our carbon footprint as drastically as possible, we took lots of pictures. It's the only evidence we'll have in just a few short years.











I also found my next countertops for my kitchen. Okay, and my bathroom too. Aaannd maybe an outdoor entertaining area. Isn't this sedimentary rock beautiful? Now, to figure out how to truck bucket loads out of the national park without being detected...hmmm...


So what does one do with an unexpected extra afternoon in one of the most picturesque places in the country? Why, eat the local food, contribute to the local economy, and pull up a rocking chair to watch the world go by. East Glacier became our base camp, where we successfully accomplished all three tasks ;-)

This little place had an antique stove out front, outdoor seating, and was voted best Huckleberry pie. We figured we couldn't go wrong. I always wonder who's voting in these contests...the bears, for all I know. But yes, the pie was amazing.



Just down the street, we came upon this. What a neat little shanty. I'm the proud new owner of my own hand-crafted wooden spoon, made from Montana birch. Most of you know how much I love to cook AND that birch is my favorite tree. It was the perfect marriage, and needed to belong in my kitchen.




We landed here for the remainder of the afternoon and evening. This is the Glacier Park Lodge, erected in 1912 by the Great Northern Railway. An Amtrak station still stands across the street and has 2 daily trains that come into the depot. Most impressive are the immense timbers that support the lodge. They were probably 500 to 800 years old when they were cut and all of them retain their bark. There are 60 of them, 36 to 42 inches in diameter and 40 feet long. For the longest time, Phill and I just wandered the lobby, admiring the craftsmanship of construction, and imagining the process it took to create this structure.




They had beautiful grounds, so we walked among the flowers, and finally ended the day, in our rocking chairs, facing west.


The slide is supposed to be cleared sometime tonight, so we intend to try this again tomorrow. Given what we've seen of the park so far, it's hard to even imagine what majesty awaits us. We have now been to a number of the national parks. Glacier is the first one that gave me goosebumps. There is indeed something magical and awe-inspiring about this place. I had to pinch myself more than once during the morning to make sure I was really witnessing what my eyes and brain told me I was. For much of the trip, I thought about the Blackfeet and Flathead Indian tribes who once called this place home. I recited some of the lines from the Chief Seattle letter read at our wedding, mourning over the white man's lack of respect and love for this earth, and how in the 21st century I will have a front row seat as I watch that abuse melt away the ice. We are so grateful we took this trip. So thankful we have now seen this sacred place. To anyone who can, I would encourage you to make the trip here to see it for yourself. By 2035, I would wager you'll be glad you did.



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